The Globalisation of Fashion – Farfetch.com

While researching international e-commerce for my startup last week, I came across this company called Farfetch.com, an international e-commerce site aggregating boutiques from around the world.

Now, the reason I started this blog was because I was tired of hearing myself tell my husband that “that was once my idea for a startup.” But back in the summer of 2010, I quit my job to devote myself to a startup whose goal was to aggregate independent boutiques online. I also decided to time this with having a third baby and a husband who works 80-hour weeks. Needless to say, I wasn’t exactly setting myself up for success, especially as I started with the goal of learning how to code. Coding and morning sickness, under the cloak of Berkeley’s summer fog, made for some pretty good times.

A couple months later, Google unveiled boutiques.com, and sadly, that was the nail in the coffin. There I was guzzling coffee, trying to combat the tiredness of my first trimester and the boredom of my online Ruby on Rails class, when I read from Cathy Horyn in the New York Times that Google had just spent millions throwing itself at this idea– the one I had quit my job for. For those unfamiliar with boutiques.com, it obviously didn’t work out as intended, but at first the site sounded like it was to be an aggregation of boutiques, whether from brick and mortar stores or just virtual ones. The site’s visual search technology was useful in finding products, but they seemed to have botched the boutique aspect of it. Regardless, someone across the pond had already started doing the more difficult schlep work of convincing boutiques to join his site. And two years later, he has attracted over 56,000 customers in 100 countries.

To prove the point again, that in the startup world, if you’re thinking about something, so is someone else– today Business of Fashion Managing Editor Vikram Alexei Kansara unveiled an exclusive article on Farfetch with its founder Jose Neves. The article mentions that they’ve raised $25 million to date and are poised to become the “next global independent franchise in online fashion and luxury.”

But I think it’s worth thinking about the larger trend Farfetch fits in, which is international e-commerce.  Considering how mature e-commerce is in the U.S. and Europe, it’s surprising how complicated international e-commerce still is. It boggles my mind that in 2012 I still can’t order from Harvey Nichols in London. How hard can international shipping and figuring out taxes and duties really be? One thing I learned last week is that for Brazil, this is actually amazingly complicated.

In Brazil, trying to buy a pair of Isabel Marant boots from Net-a-Porter would cost you:

Boots price: $580
Taxes: $204
Duties: $348
Shipping: $42
Total: $1174

I sure am glad I’m not in Brazil. But enabling e-commerce for Brazilians is probably worth figuring out for most e-tailers given its population of 200 million and relatively closed economy where products cost twice as much as elsewhere. Even if taxes and duties double the price of the product when buying abroad, in many cases Brazilians will still come out ahead.

2011 seemed to be the year many major U.S. retailers wised up, with Macy’s, Bloomingdales, and Barney’s announcing international shipping.

But with a site like Farfetch, I don’t think I’ll be waiting for Harvey Nichols to ship to me anymore…For most retailers, it might be too little, too late.

 

 

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News Roundup

Sole Man Blake Mycoskie -WSJ

Although he’s the founder of TOMS Shoes, the company that donates a pair of shoes to a child in need for every pair sold, his name isn’t Tom. Social entrepreneur Blake Mycoskie named his for-profit company after his original charitable inspiration, “Shoes for a Better Tomorrow,” which eventually became “Tomorrow’s Shoes,” and then “TOMS.” The Californian eschews traditional titles, referring to himself as “chief shoe giver”—a deserving moniker for someone who’s donated over one million pairs in less than five years. More Indiana Jones than corporate CEO, he travels the globe on TOMS’s “shoe drops,” in which he and a team distribute footwear to kids in underprivileged areas in South Africa, Haiti, Rwanda, Cambodia and elsewhere. Back at home, he lives on a boat docked in Marina del Rey.

Digital Dressing Room – NYTimes

A new social-network shopping site, motilo.com, with links to high fashion e-commerce sites, makes online shopping with friends more like the real thing.

A Saucy Millionaire Role Model for Serial Entrepreneurs – Entrepreneur

At first blush, Marcia Kilgore exudes the whimsy of a doe-eyed waif. Beneath the surface is a buckled-down businesswoman with a demanding yet optimistic nature. It would lead her to a trifecta as a serial entrepreneur, notably selling a majority stake of Bliss Spa to conglomerate LVMH for $30 million just three years after starting up.

Russian Woman Entrepreneur Elena Silenok Starts Up Clothia – Women 2.0

In the last year the amount of fashion sites has exploded from tools to save your purchases in to discovery and ecommerce while sharing with your friends. Some of succeeded while others have not and many are still in question. What is going to separate all these sites from each other?

We will see but after meeting with Elena I was really intrigued with Clothia because she does have something that sets her apart from the rest. The technology to put your body on line and then try on the clothes virtually. You might have a much better idea on how each item will look on your before you press buy.

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Where was she going dressed like this in England’s industrial Midlands? I don’t think it mattered: the point was that she had never stopped making an effort.

What is fashion but personality? And youth has nothing on that – by Gemma Champ

Fashion Talk as Foolishness & Moving Beyond the Medium of Print

For as long as I can remember, I’ve taken mental snapshots of style that inspires me. Seared in my mind is the moment before fourth grade, having just returned from a summer in the U.S.– where my sister & I had been indulged in buying a year’s worth of clothing, although at a fraction of what it would cost in Switzerland– of placing a carefully crafted outfit on the floor in front of my closet, and thinking: “this would look perfect in a picture.”

Another snapshot is the instance upon entering a friend’s medieval stone house– all gray from the outside and arching over one of the streets in the old village of Cressier– only to discover sumptuous persian rugs covering the uneven floor and the most exquisite blending of velvets, toiles, paintings, and vases, all more ancient & exotic looking than the other. I had no words for such style, but knew it was special, and from the Ethan Allen interiors of Orlando suburbia, this was the beginning of an education.

Fashion & design have a special place in my heart. Inexplicably, when I discover a designer making pleats out of flannel, it makes me happy. I take the most pleasure in the most unexpected combinations. So much of life is out of one’s control, but you can trick your mind into seeing & feeling things in a new light each day, whether through the clothes you’re wearing, the book you’re reading, or the song you just discovered.

The thrust for this post comes from this impression I’ve developed over the years– from the media, colleagues, friends & family– that the world of fashion is frivolous, not to be preoccupied with or indulged in. This stereotype is so at odds with the role fashion & design play in people’s lives that I think it’s worth taking a look at.

Most perplexing of all is that this stereotype is perpetuated by the media, especially in fashion blogs. Comparing my Twitter streams– one being my main account with people of general interest (mainly econ, finance, or startup related), and the other being for fashion & design people– is revealing and disturbing. While mainstream newspapers and publications like WWD and Business of Fashion balance the job of taking themselves seriously with indulging in the whims of fashion, the vast majority of fashion voices out there have little substance.

Even when there is substance, like in Vogue or W magazine, for me it usually doesn’t strike at the core of why fashion is worth paying attention to, i.e. a style profile of some Middle East royalty figure or socialite is not quite what I’m looking for.

Then there’s the equally perplexing paltry business coverage of the $270 billion industry that is apparel in the U.S.

So I ask my husband: “is the world of fashion really just frivolous and mindless– is this an accurate portrayal? Why does it not have the heft & get the same attention as other industries that make up our daily living, like music, film, literature, and food?” He says he thinks it’s both frivolous and important. Clearly he doesn’t seem as conflicted about the public image of fashion…. But he does make an interesting point that the lack of business coverage probably stems from most brands being private and not publicly traded.

But this lack of (the right) substance in blogs and the media got me thinking. What if it’s because the medium has never been suited to the art, until now? The age of print was the perfect medium for the flourishing of news publications, and book publishers. And the advent of the radio and recording devices were good enough for the music industry to take off. But maybe fashion– the act of assembling, chronicling and disseminating style pictures– has been stymied by the medium of print. Up until very recently, it’s been pretty hard and costly to take great pictures and have them turn out well in print.

There’s also the democratization angle which is particularly meaningful for matters of taste. It could be argued that the music and publishing industries have been doing an OK job capturing the vast pool of talent in the world. But before Project Runway– only half kidding– I’m not sure there were many vehicles for breaking into fashion. If you had impeccable taste, well this was probably to the exclusive benefit of those who appreciated your stylish company. The Sartorialist and millions of Polyvore users are much better at getting at the core of what makes fashion interesting, in addition to being its most effective evangelists. The low barriers to entry do mean that it’ll be noisy, and maybe this is what we’re seeing now with the rise of advertorial low-substance fashion blogs, but that just means we need better filters.

So maybe the age of the internet and computer screen will usher in a new dawn for fashion: a new medium suited to the enjoyment & dissemination of pictures, with a democratic internet propelling the best talent to the top, for the world to see.

 

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My Winter’s Obsession: Mixed-Metal Chunky Jewelry


Recycled Vintage Pieces from Dirty Librarian Chains:

(clockwise from top left)

1. Paperback necklace, $130

2. Adobe bracelet, $90

3. Orion necklace, $200

4. Metronome bracelet, $145

5. Toltec bracelet, $55

6. IX necklace/bracelet, $145

7. Verse bracelet, $140

 

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News Roundup

Online Shopping Gets Fancy – WSJ

Once upon a time, a stylish, discerning shopper wouldn’t dream of clicking-and-buying for anything but a book or a bulk order of stationery. But since the Net-a-Porter revolution, the goods stocked in special boutiques, designer shops and even flea markets in far-flung locales can be found just as easily on the Web. Now, online buyers snap up rare designer labels, exclusive pieces and ready-to-wear days after it leaves the runway. To wit, these shops are open 24-7, often send out purchases the day an order is placed and package their goods with the same charm and care as a small boutique in Paris might.

Harsh Realities From 500 Startups Founders – On Startups

There’s always talk about the end game in the form of an acquisition, funding announcement, or eventual flame out. Hollywood has even made a movie about the founding of Facebook that glamorizes startup life instead of showing what it really is: a day in day out marathon of work with very little glamor. We rarely hear about the harsh realities that entrepreneurs face and the journey that this entails. This isn’t meant to be a downbeat and negative article, but actually quite the opposite. By knowing the harsh realities that lie ahead, you can be prepared when they come about so you can solider on. Here are some of the harsh realities that come with the territory of being an entrepreneur.

Need A Last Minute Gift? There’s A Subscription For That – Women 2.0

Subscription services have been around for more than a century. Generations before us were the first to enjoy subscriptions to magazines, newspapers, and more. As a kid, I even remember being forced to go door-to-door to sell subscriptions for wrapping paper. (Side note: Who really needs a monthly subscription to wrapping paper?)

Only in the past several years has our friend, the Internet, disrupted the traditional subscription model of the media monoliths, forcing them to think about new ways to offer online subscriptions as well as free versions of their content. In doing so, more and more new companies began to see the opportunity to apply the subscription model in unique ways to Internet businesses. But, it wasn’t until 2011 that light bulbs went off across the industry — today, there are subscription service options for everything from monthly beauty supplies to dog toys.

How To Change Your Perception Of Risk – Women 2.0

It’s that time of the year again. Yes, it’s time to come up with New Year’s resolutions! As a fellow entrepreneurial woman I would like to suggest one, that if truly embraced, should take your career to new heights. Make a small shift in the way you perceive risk.

“Take risk and you will reap rewards.” We’ve all heard some version of this saying. We’ve all been told that as women, we need to start taking more risk in our careers. Some even say that we are naturally more risk averse than men and must fight this natural instinct.

Resort 2012 & My Southern Roots

I spent equal parts growing up between the College Park area of Orlando & in the towns around lake Neuchatel, Switzerland. I’ve never identified myself as southern, but have discovered over the years what a deep impression southern style has had on me. With so many of the favorite designers I discover seems to come a new story of a southern girl moving to NYC to pursue her dreams: Hunter Dixon, Abigail Lorick, and now designers Natalie Holst and Rochelle Lee of Holst + Lee. There’s always this element of free-spiritedness mixed with tradition. Having just watched The Help over the holidays, it’s captured perfectly by the character & nickname, Skeeter. The South has a charm like no other.

Natalie Holst and Rochelle Lee of Holst + Lee

 

clockwise from top left:

1. Plate-TEN by Holst + Lee

2. Anna Poncho Dress by LemLem

3. Tiki Underwire Cami Bikini by Mara Hoffman

4. Gigi Scarf by LemLem

5. Multi-Strand 4-NINE by Holst + Lee

6. Collar-SEVEN by Holst + Lee

7. Lila Tunic by LemLem

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News Roundup

One Kings Lane’s Doug Mack Makes Every Home A Castle – Fast Company

If logic had anything to do with it, One Kings Lane, the online shop with daily deals on luxe home furnishings, wouldn’t have made it beyond a friendly conversation about the dearth of destinations to shop for décor between founders Alison Pincus and Susan Feldman.

In 2009, U.S. home prices were in free-fall and foreclosures hit record highs as delinquent loans piled up. Yet the two entrepreneurs sunk their hearts and their savings into the launch and before they knew it, One Kings Lane was off and running.

David Karp Gives Insight On Starting Tumblr

Blogger, WordPress and Tumblr are the big three when it comes to the blogosphere, but Tumblr has distinguished itself because of its effortless, creative and intuitive blogging functions. Tumblr was founded by David Karp in 2007 as a way for him to overcome what he didn’t like about the other blogging platforms. In June 2011 Tumblr had over 20 million bloggers and in October it became the first platform to host Barack Obama’s blog. In this interview with mediabistro David Karp talks about starting Tumblr and where he sees it going.

How Entrepreneurs with Social Vision Secured Venture Capital – Entrepreneur

Fashion-forward friends Neil Blumenthal, David Gilboa, Andrew Hunt and Jeffrey Raider aren’t your bargain-basement eyewear types. The four University of Pennsylvania Wharton School of business alumni always preferred designer frames and lenses that ran about $500 per pair–a fact they lamented.

“Most glasses are marked up between 10 and 20 times what they cost to manufacture, and that just didn’t make any sense to us,” Blumenthal says. So they set out to refocus the industry.

Chinese Pinterest Huaban.com Grabs Money and Attention – Business Insider

Out of all the Chinese Pinterests we mentioned earlier, Huaban (花瓣, or petals) is decidedly the one that stands out from the crowd to receive US$ more than one million in Series A round of funding  from KPCB, less than ten days after the website went online. The Hangzhou-based service was crafted by the startup behind Yupoo, one of the earliest and best Flickr-clone in China founded about 7 years ago.